- From our online exploration of Taiwan, I knew that Taiwan was more than just big polluted cities and was actually home to a lesser-known tropical East Coast. But once we landed and took the train down’s Taiwan’s coast through Hualien and Taitung, there was so much that surprised me about each coastal town.
1. Taiwan’s trains are my new favourite form of transport.
Not only will the express train take you all the way around the country, it arrives precisely on time and sometimes earlier. It moves swiftly between each town long the coast providing such outstanding views of passing rice paddies, mountains and the bluest of ocean. It is about five times more comfortable than a flight as you have a lot more leg room, seats are very comfortable and recline deeply, inviting sleep. Women come around selling snacks and collecting garbage along the journey. A true public transport dream.



2. We were led to believe that Hualien was the best city with great beaches
So when we arrived our expectations were really high. We had seen photos of sheer cliff drops down to turquoise ocean and all we saw was an ugly, little town. (Nevertheless later on we will be writing our post about things to do in Hualien)
None of the buildings looked like they had been upgraded since the war and each and every one was covered in shower-bottom tiles. Great for protection from typhoons but not easy on the eye. I decided then and there that it was in fact the ugliest Asian city I had laid eyes on. Upon investigation we walked to down to the sea and found a port and a black, pebble-stoned beach. It had such a sheer drop down from the beach that you couldn’t swim there. It was only once we left that we realised we’d missed the best part- the lovely coast that you can only see once driving south.

A road through graveyards and tombs.




One of Hualien’s more beautiful spots.
3. The astonishingly picturesque Taroko Gorge.
Hualien’s true beauty did not seem to lie on the coast but within its mountains. Entering the Taroko Gorge National Park was such a breathtaking drive. The road curved endlessly, snaking through tunnels, between steep mountainous peeks and azure rivers. We overnighted at Silks Place in Taroko, swam in their pool and jacuzzied on the roof with the sound of cascading water over rocks. We walked along the Bei Yang trail bending below ferns, walking through black tunnels, over suspension bridges and standing in a curtain of water. I don’t believe there is any other place like it.


4. The dentist in Hualien spoke English.
After falling and badly cracking my front tooth on a rock at a waterfall in Thailand, I’ve had to visit the dentist regularly for root canal. Travelling to Taiwan, I figured it was all behind me until I experienced crazy pain in a different area of my mouth. Terrified of going to a random Taiwanese dentist, my husband forced me into one that looked quite professional. Up until that moment no one in Hualien could speak any English (other than the manager of our hostel) so I didn’t have high hopes. Then I looked up and saw photos of the dentist in countries throughout the Middle East, Africa and Asia. He was a cosmopolitan man who had worked on all kinds of teeth. And when his receptionist got flustered and couldn’t communicate with us, he kindly came forward and had an entire conversation. Good and rare times.
5. Taitung is Taiwan’s Hawaii.
I had seen videos of international surfing competitions held in Taitung and pictures of its beaches. But none of them prepared me for what I saw on our drive from the train station. Palm trees lined the highway and made way from black rocks and rook pools leading into the dark blue ocean. Its trees, vegetation and flowers resembled Hawaii’s so much that if it wasn’t for the Mandarin signs, I would have forgotten where I was. To the right of us the ocean began to swell in smooth sets and to the left, the mountain rose up holding dense forest and fruit trees on its slopes.








6. There are tanned, Taiwanese surfers.
Being thoroughly acquainted with the vampire tendencies of most Asian people to remain out of the sun and as white as snow, I couldn’t believe it when we spotted tanned Taiwanese locals in Taitung. There was a beautiful, bronzed woman renting surfboards at a store near the beach. We rode our scooter down the path between the palms only to find young Taiwanese boys with great tans riding the sweetest waves. Unlike the most of the Taiwanese population, they didn’t fight the sun. But rode on scooter in boardies and vests with no masks or arm covers and attached surfboards on the side of their scooter or car rack. They spoke English, had such a chilled nature and just wanted to know how our surf was.



7. Taitung county is home to seven Aboriginal ethnic groups.
The first clue I had to any aboriginal people in Taitung was at the train station. Large wooden statues resembling Red Indians greeted us at the exit. At some stage we saw tall statues in the city resembling totem poles and enjoyed live music from an aborigine band in Taroko Gorge. Taiwanese aborigines only constitute 2 % of Taiwan’s population but most reside in Taitung country. The seven aboriginal ethnic groups include Bunun, Paiwan, Rukai, Amis, Beinan, Yamis, and Gamalan ad each have their own ways of worship, songs and dances and popular decorative arts. Some worship their ancestors, other hold the lily sacred, Shamanism (black and white witchcraft) was popular amongst the Beinan tribe in earlier times whilst fly fishing is very important in the life of a Yamis.

8. Accommodation is old-school ( not in the good way).
I had inkling that travelling in less-populated areas of Taiwan may feel like we were being transported to the 1970’s, but I had no idea. For one, most didn’t even have a website and when their ‘presence’ was found online the listing only provided a contact and fax number. Most buildings didn’t seem to have been renovated since the war and indoors décor took inspiration from ‘house on the prairie’ and horror movies where people in sepia photos moved. Floral pink wallpaper, lights and switches on the headboard that resembling a switchboard in an old studio.
9. Highway 11 is mind blowing.
It is the single most beautiful stretch of coastal road I have ever seen (other than Chapman’s Peak in Cape Town) and runs between Taitung and Hualien. In the blazing summer sun we set off from Taitung passing fruits orchards, palm trees, lower green mountainside slopes and ever-moving ocean meeting the land. We ate popcorn and drank ice coffees at the most scenic of viewpoints and rode the bike down dirt roads which led us to beaches with ‘No Swimming’ signs. Sadly we didn’t have the time to drive to the southern parts of Hualien, but next time for sure.









10. The inescapable heat.
Having lived in Koh Samui, Thailand for 8 months and surviving the hottest months of April and May, I figured no heat could shock me. But I was wrong. Taiwan’s heat in the summer is something else. It’s stuffy, not quite as humid but sunshine as hot as hell. On a scooter, we could not go without covering ourselves in sarongs. Even walking around in Hualien and Taidong city was unbearable unless you shielded yourself with something. After making fun of locals with their sun umbrellas, we caved and had to buy our own for fear of sunstroke or severe burning.


Nice Article. It does remind me of Hawaii.
Thanks Shawn. Getting to surf here was incredible. Unfortunately there weren’t any typhoons around when we were there so I just got super small waves but they were just ridiculously fun. Are you currently in Taiwan or heading that way?
It’s on my list, there’s no date set yet. I’m still in the liquidating stage but will be taking “the plunge” as a full-time travel blogger very soon.
@shawncookson:disqus that’s awesome new – slightly jealous actually! What are your details – feel free to post your site link in the comments here so that myself and others can hopefully check it out. Let us know your twitter handle too. Mine is @VaughanMac
Got it! The site is just ’bout done. If’s mostly a network for “verified” travel bloggers to post by specific location on a map. It all started when I found out Indian college students were posting bogus reviews to Expedia and Trip Advisor. I made a Linkedin post about it via Twitter @ShawnCookson.
Whoa! sorry…lol, didn’t know it was that big and I can’t delete it.
Nah, no worries mate.
This is great! Cheers, have given you a follow on twitter. Keen to see how things go for the new site.
I’m planning a trip to Taiwan at the end of June and it was great to see all your pictures. I didn’t realize Taitung was worth seeing besides as a stopping point to reach Lanyu and Green Island. Would you recommend spending a day in Taitung on the way to the islands?
Hi Richelle, I know my wife will probably get back to you as well but…YES…North of Taitung (not far) is a town called Dulan and this whole area is so beautiful. Quite similar to Hawaii actually. Actually I’ve just taken a screenshot for you and the area in between the arrows is where we explored. We stayed at the stars. The circle is Dulan. It’s a tiny town but fascinating in it’s own way. Best to explore on a scooter but they are difficult to find.
Wow thank you so much! I’m going to Taiwan by myself for two weeks and there’s so much to do and so little time! It’s hard to figure out where to go and what to do, especially since I’ll be traveling by myself so camping and long-distance scooter hides down Highway 11 are probably not the best idea for me.
Pleasure Richelle. Yea, Taiwan is very safe but I appreciate not wanting to risk it alone. I see that you entered our current comp – are you S.African? If so and you do find yourself in Dulan then there is a South African restaurant run by two Saffers that have been out there for ages. It is called Wagaligong and makes for a good change in food 🙂 You’ve done well by choosing not to miss the East Coast. By far the most beautiful. Enjoy the rail transport, it’s awesome. I assume you are heading down from Taipei? The tracks run down the coast the whole way. Try get your seat on the left. Here’s a website that I always used to check the train schedules –
http://twtraffic.tra.gov.tw/twrail/English/e_index.aspx – They are always on time.
If you need any other help just shoot us an email or something and we’ll be happy to try help out.
Do the trains and buses in Taiwan allow travelers to bring their surfboards on?
Some bus companies in Taiwan allow you to carry surfboards in luggage storage area without extra fees.
However, you are allowed to have your surfboard consigned by train in Taiwan only if the size of the surfboard fits the terms of not being longer than 2 meters in length, and not larger than 1 square meters or not over 30 kg.
Hello. So you got in the water then? All the shots of beaches I’ve seen
on the east coast have “No swimming” signs. Is this just over-cautious
or are the currents really bad? Just interested in swimming, not
surfing. Anywhere in particular you’d recommend?
Hi Paul, yes we did get in the water and loved every second. I think many of those no swimming signs are probably up for the typhoons and or beaches that they have fishing operations off? In any case, I know a few guys who love surfing just prior to the typhoons for the good swell, so i’m sure a little dip wouldn’t hurt at all. We went surfing / swimming in Dulan, just north of Taitung. I recommend it.
Hey so I just moved to Taiwan living in Chiayi city. The train from here to taitung is only 4 hours. I have next week off and the swell looks good! I was just wondering how easy it is to travel with a surfboard and how easy it is to get to the beach from the train station on taitung. Thanks for the help!
-Mike
Hey Mike / Louie,
Good on you for bringing your board with! Putting your board in the train should be easy enough, they have “open” areas at the back of each carriage and there is plenty of space to stand a board up there. I doubt security be an issue but it’s close enough to keep an eye on (not that the majority of Taiwanese would know what to do with a surfboard.)
The surf spots are in Dulan and north of Dulan which is about 30/45 min bus / taxi ride away and there you’ll find decent waves, a small but friendly surf community and cheap accommodation. We stayed in Dulan and surfed the local break (which was awesome) and has a surf shop on the turn off to the beach. We hired a board and I used our rent-a-scooter to get it from the shop the the water. It’s a fairly long walk in the heat.
One other thing, we only surfed in the late afternoons when we were there due to the extreme heat, the water gets pretty warm too. All in all it’s TOTALLY worth it, especially if there is good swell.
Sweet! Thanks for the quick response! And what about the bus…easy enough to get a board on that too?
Pleasure, that’s what all this technology is about! 🙂
We actually took a taxi so I don’t have personal experience in the bus from Taitung but we saw them at the station and they look big enough. if they are anything like the ones in Taipei, Pingdong and Hualien ( and I suspect they are) then you’ll be fine.
Excellent! Very excited to check this out!!
Hello. Great info. My boyfriend and I are currently in Hualien and are travelling to Taitung in a few days. We didnt want to take the train as we have read that you miss the beautiful scenery, however as we have been in Taiwan for more than 30 days we are not allowed to rent a car without a local license. How did you and your husband travel it? Did you use a ride share or did you rent a car within the 30 days? Any advise would be great. Have been looking all over the internet for ways around it but no luck so far. It is looking that we will have to go by train, which will be a shame.
Hey Claire, Thanks for your comment – super jealous you guys are on East Coast Taiwan. So we actually did take a train from Hualien to Taitung and then took a taxi from Taitung station to Dulan. The bus also goes there and it’s fairly easy to grab one. We had the EXACT same issue with renting scooters / cars and were very lucky to end up staying at a place that rented one out to us. The place is very rustic but a wonderful family run it and it’s right in the mountains – which are exquisite. Google “Sea-Art Hostel Dulan (Or Taitung).” I think the only way to get self-driven transport is to stay somewhere that hires it out. Please try make it work, I know it’s a hassle, but that particular stretch of coastline is magnificent. Let us know if you come right! 🙂
great pictures, good blog, but what is your frequent reference to “since the war” about?
what war are you talking about?
George, thanks for your comment. Haha – I think “the war” my wife was referencing was more a turn-of-phrase than an actual war. Sorry for the confusion. Honestly though, some buildings do look as though they haven’t changed since the 2nd World War when Japan invaded them.
Love this guide to Taiwan’s east coast – thanks for your beautiful pictures! Just wanted to note that Taiwan wasn’t invaded by Japan during WWII; it was actually a Japanese colony for 50 years prior (1895-1945). It was the Nationalists (KMT) who fled to Taiwan after losing the Chinese Civil War in 1947-9. At the time, Taiwan was already home to aboriginal tribes (who had been living there for several thousand years) and to millions of descendants of 17th-c. Chinese settlers (who had been ‘invited’ as laborers/farmers by early modern Dutch colonists).
Thanks so much for the lesson there @catielilly:disqus – urgh, so embarrassed right now! Really cool to read about what actually happened. Glad you liked the guide! Thanks for reading 🙂
Please don’t be embarrassed! Taiwan’s history is so complicated! And because of its ambiguous international status, its history is a battleground as well. Right now, HS students have occupied the Ministry of Education to protest China-centric changes to the curriculum. (http://thediplomat.com/2015/07/after-young-taiwan-activists-suicide-hundreds-storm-education-ministry/). Bottom line, we Taiwanese love sharing our stories with visitors who can teach the world more about our tiny island nation!
You are awesome @catielilly:disqus thank you! I really love your tiny little island and really hope to come back and explore more one day!
Hi there! I hope you can use your experience to help with some of my questions, thanks in advance for your time! My fiance and I are visiting Taiwan in October- only have 5 short days. We’re going primarily to surf, and flying into Kaohsiung then train to Taitung. The surf spots you said are mostly in Dulan and north of Dulan? Were they accessible by car (we might rent a car), or are roads rough and small only for scooters? When you went north to Hualien, how was the drive? thanks again!
Hi, we have heard you can’t bring surfboards on the trains in Taiwan but can’t really find any information online whether this is true or not. Would you happen to know by any chance?
We’re staying in yilan most of the time in Taiwan and then we’ll travel south to taitung country for a few days, so you recommend bus or train?
Cheers
Hi @disqus_dSKhPLbBOw:disqus I’m not sure about that but I can tell you the trains in Taiwan have LOTS of space and we saw people with huge bags and boxes. In fact we carried ginormous bags ourselves and we had no problems. I definitely recommend the train and then once in Taitung – head up to Dulan via bus / taxi and get some great waves there.
Hi @Vaughan thank you for your reply. That is good news, would normally just go and not plan much but travelling with a baby this time so it changes your perspective a bit.
@disqus_dSKhPLbBOw:disqus feel free to share any tips with us as our little one is due in just 13 weeks! 🙂 Have fun and safe travels.
Anything you want to know… Feel free to ask, you have an amazing adventure ahead of you 🙂
“…I decided then and there that it was in fact the ugliest Asian city I had laid eyes on…” Gee, thanks for insulting my family’s ancestral home in Taiwan. You know, white people are not the only ones that read English. Think about your audience before you speak unless you’d like it if visitors from other countries rip into your hometown and call it the “ugliest South African city they have ever seen”.
Thank for reading. I’m not white and yet I can read so it’s definitely not an assumption I make. Everything published on this site is our own, honest opinion. We really enjoyed Taiwan but having travelled through many parts of Asia, this town really isn’t the most aesthetically pleasing. I don’t mind people sharing their honest opinions about South Africa. I am however yet to hear anyone call Cape Town ugly. Each city has it’s strengths and weaknesses. By ancestral home, does that mean you no longer live there?
you should have done a little more research maybe. actually, every town in taiwan has this same bathroom tile aesthetic. so you would have been better off saying its taiwans style, not hualiens. hualien is actually quite a nice place compared to a lot of rough shitty looking places in taiwan.
Hey Lauren,
Being in the Philippines I still haven’t made it up to Taiwan. We’ve got friends there on a 2 year work contract and there not even going to leave Taiwan during vacations. They keep saying there’s so much to discover.
After living in mainland China this looks like a dream. The trains look incredible, there’s cleaner air, and the beaches are accessible from the city only a short ride away.
The photos you laid out were beautiful. I love how you put a good balance of the good and bad. Not use to seeing this often enough.
Welcome back home to South Africa!
Love from Manila,
Mark
Hey Mark,glad you enjoyed. I wish we’d have more time to discover Taiwan. Especially the East Coast, I’m pretty sure it’s natural beauty far exceeds that of many parts of Mainland China, but I can’t judge as I’ve never been to China. Thank you, we are so excited to be home…finally 🙂
Haha hopefully that itch will stay away for awhile. Should be fine though with the baby and all… Enjoy enjoy!
The island of Taiwan is beautiful but, it is nothing compared to the beauty of the people who live there. Everyone tries very hard to use their best good manners no matter where you go. If you feel it is too hot, spend a weekend up in the mountains at Chitou. It is beautiful and nice and cool. When you stay in Taipei, don’t stay in one of the large hotels. Try one of the smaller ones that actually provide better service. My favorite of them all is the Ritz……………
Awesome! This was very interesting and informative. I met you two while with Brighton in Malaysia. Small world, hugh? I’m about to start work there, and I was researching how easy it is to bring my boards on the train. I’ll be able to enjoy year round surf there in the mornings, and then take the subway to work for the second shift. I’m stoked! Surf’s up! While I didn’t quite find the answer for ‘bringing my boards on the train’ – after reading the comments, you did answer my fiancee’s question about how safe it is there. Muchos Gracias mi amigos!!!
Hey Vaughan,
I am planning a trip to Taiwan. I have decided to stop in Taitung but I am not sure it is worth it now. What would you recommend ? Would you recommend to stop in Taitung and travel around or just pass by ? How long would you recommend to stay in Taitung ?
Thanks in advance
regards
Digital nomads my ass… if y’all are going to be traveling and experiencing different countries and cultures, at least be open minded and not so insulting and degrading when you go to visit other places people call home. “…and all we saw was an ugly, little town.” Seriously?
“After making fun of locals with their sun umbrellas..” and so on and so forth. For someone who travels so much, your mindset is seriously appalling.